- Soldering Iron (20-40 watts)
- Solder (I prefer 63/37 solder)
- Wire Cutters
- A suitable work surface and adaquate lighting.
- Small screwdriver to set the display contrast.
Assembly time should be around 2 hours.
Also have a look at Things you will need that are not on the parts list.
Also see Notes about using the JSR DIY Kit for some comments on power usage with the DIY kit.
What you will get when you order your DIY kit is a printed circuit board (PCB) and a Atmega 328 microcontroller pre-programmed with the JSR software. Every component is labelled on the PCB for easy assembly.
You will need to buy the rest of the parts yourself. Below is a picture of all the components you will need. Power supply and cables are not shown.
Some general component notes:
Resistors: Not polarized, generally not heat sensitive.
Capacitors: The little brown ones are not polarized. The 10uF ones are. The negative side is labelled Be sure to get them on the right way. Also, 2 of them are installed on their side. See the pictures below.
Diodes: Polarized, heat sensitive. Align the band on the diode with the double line on the PCB. If they are installed backwards they will short out the power supply.
Transistors: Polarized, heat sensitive. Insert them as shown on the PCB.
LEDs: Polarized, heat sensitive. The PCB diagram has a flat side near one of the leads. Line this up with the flat side on the side of the LED. You can install them on their side if you want.
Electret Microphone: Polarized, heat sensitive. See the picture below for the correct placement. You can install it on it's side for better reception.
Integrated Circuits: I like to use the sockets so I can easily change them if I need to. One end of the socket has a little notch. Line this up with the notch printed on the circuit board. When you insert the IC, line up the notch with the notch on the socket.
Voltage Regulator: Should be installed on it's side with the heat sink soldered to the plate on the PCB.
Crystal: Non-polarized. Heat sensitive.
Header Pins: Cut them to 16 pins long. Solder the female pins to the PCB and the male pins to the LCD display. This allows easy removal of the display.
Tact Switches: These are available in many different heights. If they have the 6mmx6mm "through hole" base, they should work here.
10K Trimmer Pot: After complete assembly, you will need to power the unit on and adjust this control to make the LCD contrast legible. It can be turned about 15 times, so you might need to turn it multiple times to get the screen set correctly.
Here is a picture of the components soldered to the circuit board prior to inserting the integrated circuits. The female pin header has been cut to a length of 16 pins.
Microphone installation. It will not work if it is installed upside down.
Integrated circuits installed. Be sure to insert them all the correct way and watch that you don't bend the pins.
Note when using the recommended LCD, no backlight resistor is required. Solder a jumper across the resistor labled "Backlight". If you substitute a different LCD, be sure to use the correct resistor for the backlight.
Break off a piece of the male header 16 pins long and solder to your display.
Insert the LCD onto the female header on the PCB:
Power the unit on and adjust the contrast to make the display readable. If you install the variable resistor as shown, you would need to turn in counter-clockwise to set the contrast.
Congratulations on completing your JSR Intervalometer DIY project!
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